How to Clean Stains

Removing stains is much easier when done promptly, so it’s a good idea to have the basics on hand. First, you’ll need a detergent (duh). Green, earth-friendly detergents are slowly finding their way onto store shelves, and they work just as well as their toxic brethren (see right). Next, you’ll want at least one stain removal product for pretreating. There are sticks, sprays, gels, and soaks—all of these work well, though some have strengths and weaknesses with different stain types. Lastly, you’ll want bleach for whites or, for colors, a color-safe bleach detergent or heavy duty detergent. Beyond this, of course you’ll need paper towels or cotton rags and gloves for safety.

Stop! Before you clean stains, always read the care label. Care labels, which are sometimes hard to locate, supersede everything. If you are going to clean an oil-based stain or a dye stain, hot water is needed, but if the care label says “Wash Cold Only,” you’ll need to find another way. As promised, warm water will ruin the garment. Along a similar vein, care labels on exotic fabrics will most likely read “Dry Clean Only.” If this is the case, you’re better off taking your garment to a stain removal professional as soon as possible. Waiting longer than 48 hours will make stain removal much more difficult.

How to Clean Protein Stains (urine, blood, vomit, mucus, semen, ice cream, cream, milk, pudding, gelatin, baby food). Let it be known that if you use hot water, an iron, or the dryer on a protein stain, it will be set permanently. No heat for protein stains. First, you need to blot up any excess liquid and then soak the stain in cold water, rubbing the fabric between your fingers. Next, wash in cold with a detergent that contains enzymes (most do, and you can check on the packaging). Air dry in a dark, cool area. If the stain persists, use an enzyme-based stain removal product (see right) and rewash.

How to Clean Tannin Stains (coffee, tea, soft drinks, juice, wine, beer, booze, tomato juice). Soap and detergent are very different animals. Never use soap to clean tannin stains or they will be permanent. First, blot up any excess liquids using a cotton rag or sponge. Next, rinse the stain with cold water, pretreat with detergent or a stain removal product and wash in hot water (or as hot as the care label allows). If the mess proves difficult or has already set, clean the stain by using bleach (for whites) or a color-safe bleach alternative.

How to Clean Oil-Based Stains (cosmetics, lotions, lard, fat, salad dressing, gasoline, motor oil, mayonnaise, margarine, butter). First, blot up the excess using a cotton rag or a sponge. Some stain removal divas claim that using baking soda or talcum powder will absorb without spreading the stain and also leach some of the stain out of the fibers. Next, pretreat with a petroleum-based solvent like Shout or Spray’n Wash. Solvents are the Achilles’ heel of oil-based stains. After that, wash in hot water (as the care label allows). If the stain persists, repeat the process.

How to Clean Dye Stains (jam, blueberries, cherries, pen ink, India ink, grass, mustard, Kool-Aid, food coloring). Dye stains are best cleaned by using stain removal products that contain alcohol. This is why many people recommend using hairspray as a pretreatment before washing. Rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) works better and won’t leave any residue. After using alcohol (one for me, one for the shirt), you may want to also pretreat with detergent and wash in hot water or as warm as the fabric allows. For tough or older stains, bleach (for whites) or a color-safe bleach alternative should be used.